To cut stair stringers correctly, first measure the finished total rise, calculate the exact riser height and tread depth, lay out each step on a pressure-treated 2×12 using a framing square and stair gauges, adjust the top and bottom cuts for the finished deck and landing conditions, cut the notches without overcutting, and test-fit the first stringer before using it as a template.

A stair stringer is the sloped structural member that supports the stair treads and transfers loads down to the landing or ground support.

On a typical deck stair, the stringer is cut from dimensional lumber with a repeating series of notches. These notches create the rise and run pattern for each step.

This matters because every notch removes wood. The more wood removed, the less material remains to resist bending. A correctly laid out stringer is not just about step dimensions — it is also about preserving enough intact wood for strength.

Good stringer layout depends on:

• using adequate lumber size
• placing notches accurately
• avoiding major knots and weak grain
• minimizing overcuts
• keeping every riser consistent
• matching stringer spacing to the tread material

• pressure-treated 2×12 lumber for stringers
• framing square
• stair gauges
• tape measure
• pencil
• circular saw
• jigsaw or handsaw
• level
• structural fasteners
• approved stair attachment hardware

The framing square and stair gauges matter because they allow you to repeat the same rise and run accurately across the entire stringer.

Most residential deck stair layouts are based on widely adopted residential code requirements.

• Maximum riser height: 7 3/4 inches
• Minimum tread depth: 10 inches
• Maximum variation within one flight: 3/8 inch

These tolerances are strict because inconsistent stair geometry creates a trip hazard. A user expects each step to feel the same as the last one. Even a small difference can disrupt walking rhythm.

For stringer stock, pressure-treated 2×12 lumber is commonly preferred because it leaves more intact wood after the notches are cut.

Related: Deck Stairs Guide and Deck Stair Calculator.

Measure from the finished deck surface to the finished landing surface.

Do not measure to raw soil if the landing will later receive:

• concrete
• pavers
• compacted gravel plus surface material
• any other finished walking surface

This is one of the most common starting errors. If the finished landing ends up higher or lower than the surface you measured to, every riser changes.

Once total rise is known, divide it by a target riser height to determine the number of risers. Then divide the total rise by that whole-number riser count to get the exact riser height.

Example:

• Total rise: 42 inches
• Target riser height: 7 inches
• Number of risers: 42 ÷ 7 = 6
• Exact riser height: 42 ÷ 6 = 7 inches

Then choose the tread depth. For comfort, 11–12 inches usually feels better than the 10-inch minimum.

This stage determines whether the stair will fit the available footprint before you touch a saw.

To simplify this step, use the Deck Stair Calculator to calculate riser height, tread count, total run, and layout dimensions.

Set the framing square to the exact rise and run values and lock them with stair gauges.

If you have not already calculated these values, do that before marking the board.

Choose a clean section of the board and avoid:

• large knots
• end splits
• weak grain
• edge damage
• warped or twisted lumber

Lay out one tread and riser at a time, repeating the square down the board until the full stair profile is marked.

This is where many stair layouts go wrong.

Top cut adjustment

At the top of the stringer, the finished deck surface acts as the top landing plane.

If the top cut is not adjusted correctly, the top step height may not match the rest of the stair.

Bottom cut adjustment

At the bottom of the stringer, the finished stair condition must account for tread thickness and the landing surface.

If this correction is skipped, the bottom riser can become too tall or too short.

Why this matters

A stringer can look correct on the board and still produce uneven finished stairs if the top and bottom corrections are missed.

Use the circular saw for the straight cuts, but stop short of the inside corners. Finish the corners with a jigsaw or handsaw.

Do not run the circular saw past the notch intersections.

Why overcutting is a problem:

• the inside corner is a stress concentration point
• overcutting removes extra structural material
• the remaining stringer section becomes weaker
• cracking and flexing become more likely over time

Never cut all stringers before testing the first one in place.

Check the first stringer for:

• top attachment alignment
• bottom bearing on the landing
• riser consistency
• tread depth consistency
• total run
• fit within the available space

If the first stringer fits correctly, use it as a template for the remaining stringers.

If it does not fit, fix the layout before cutting more boards.

Stringer spacing is controlled not just by stair width, but also by tread material.

Wood stair treads are generally stiffer and can often span wider stringer spacing.

Composite stair treads usually need closer support because many composite boards deflect more under load. Some composite products may require 12-inch spacing, while some scalloped profiles may require closer support.

This means stringer count can change after you select the tread product. If you plan stair width assuming wood spacing and later switch to composite, you may need additional stringers.

Related: Composite Decking vs Wood, Deck Board Spacing, and Best Composite Decking Brands.

Use pressure-treated wood treads if:

• lower upfront cost matters most
• you want easier field cutting
• higher tread stiffness is important
• you do not mind periodic maintenance

Use composite treads if:

• lower maintenance matters more
• color consistency is important
• you are willing to frame for tighter spacing
• you want the stairs to match a composite deck surface

A correctly cut stringer can still perform poorly if the support conditions are wrong.

Top support

At the top, the stringer must attach securely to the deck framing or an approved stair support detail.

If the top connection is weak:

• the stair can shift
• fasteners can loosen
• riser consistency can change over time

Bottom support

At the bottom, the stringer must bear on a stable landing.

If the landing settles or erodes:

• risers become inconsistent
• the stair can move
• treads may no longer remain level
• trip hazards can develop

Related: Deck Framing Layout and Deck Footing Size Chart.

Cutting your own stair stringers is usually cheaper in material terms than buying specialty stair assemblies, but it increases layout time and mistake risk.

Typical cost categories include:

• 2×12 pressure-treated stock
• framing square and stair gauges
• saw blades and finish-cut tools
• tread material
• extra stringers if composite spacing requires them
• wasted stock if the first layout is wrong

The real cost driver is usually not the board itself. It is error.

Related: Composite Decking Installation Cost and Deck Cost Calculator.

Uneven deck stairs usually come from a mistake made before the stairs are ever used.

Common causes include:

• measuring total rise to unfinished grade
• rounding riser height incorrectly
• skipping top cut adjustment
• skipping bottom cut adjustment
• using a bad first stringer as a template
• allowing the landing to settle after construction

Uneven risers are especially problematic because people subconsciously expect each stair step to be identical.

Choose custom-cut stringers if:

• your deck height is not standard
• you want exact control over rise and run
• the stair must fit a specific landing condition
• you are comfortable with accurate layout work

Choose pre-cut stringers if:

• the stair geometry is standard
• you want speed and simplicity
• you accept less flexibility in the final layout

Avoid cutting your own stringers if:

• you do not have a reliable rise/run calculation yet
• the stair footprint is tight and mistakes will be expensive
• a low, wide stair would be better built as box steps

Before cutting stair stringers, calculate the entire stair layout.

Confirm:

• total rise
• number of risers
• exact riser height
• number of treads
• tread depth
• total stair run
• stair angle
• stringer spacing

The Deck Stair Calculator can help verify these values before cutting the first board.

What size board should be used for stair stringers?

Pressure-treated 2×12 is generally preferred because it leaves more intact wood after the stair notches are cut.

How do you cut stair stringers without overcutting?

Use a circular saw for the straight sections, stop before the inside corners, and finish the corners with a jigsaw or handsaw.

Do you need to adjust the top and bottom of a stair stringer?

Yes. The top and bottom must be corrected for finished tread and landing conditions so the final riser heights remain consistent.

How far apart should deck stair stringers be?

Wood treads are often supported at 16 inches on center. Composite treads often require 9–12 inches on center depending on the specific product.

Can you use pre-cut stringers for a deck?

Yes, but only when the stair geometry matches the pre-cut dimensions and the finished deck height and landing conditions work with that layout.

Why do stair treads slope forward over time?

Causes can include lumber movement, poor support at the base, settling, inconsistent layout, or inadequate stringer support.

Should I cut all stair stringers at once?

No. Cut and test-fit the first stringer before using it as a template for the remaining stringers.

Cutting stair stringers correctly is not just about copying a notch pattern onto a board. It requires accurate rise and run calculation, correct top and bottom adjustments, clean cutting, tread spacing matched to the actual material, and stable support at both ends.

The best approach is to calculate first, lay out one stringer carefully, cut without overcutting, test-fit that stringer, and only then duplicate the remaining stringers.

Last reviewed: May 2026

• International Code Council (IRC)
• American Wood Council
• Trex